Ecuador: The Heart of the Highlands

After five days in the Amazon we considered ourselves winners of “Survivor: Lavin Edition”, so we proudly shoved our damp possessions into our indestructible Eagle Creek duffles and headed for Quito.  We arrived like pilgrims at the end of a journey:  weary from the elements and eager for a cozy home.  Landing at 9,300 feet felt amazing…dry, cool, and comfortable.  Having a reduced number of oxygen molecules was child’s play compared to the constant surveillance for lethal critters that we had needed in the Amazon.   After all, I was easily two pints of blood lighter thanks to the indefatigable harassment of my personal mosquito paparazzi.   

We jumped into a van heading south and up into the mountains,  sipping water and sucking on Ecuadorian candies to keep our red blood cells up.  Arriving at Hacienda Porvenir, elevation 11,800ft., we couldn’t wait to fill our lungs with deep inhales of the intoxicatingly crisp mountain air.    

As we stepped inside the small farmhouse, we were swallowed in warmth:  roaring fireplaces, welcoming smiles, and best of all, steaming mugs of the most delicious cinnamon/naranjila tea on the face of this planet.  You had me at bienvenidos.

JP described our accommodations as real life hobbit rooms, decidedly the coziest he’d ever stepped foot in.   When I felt how the toasty the inside of my sheets were thanks to the perfectly placed hot water bottles, I had to agree.  

Our first morning we set out on horseback to explore the over 4500 acres of Porvenir. Outfitted like true chagras, the boys learned quickly that in the highlands of Ecuador a “trail ride” was not for those wanting a brief stroll in the saddle. 

An hour and a half journey through rolling hills and herds of torros bravos (i.e. the kind that try to kill matadors) brought us to 11,700 feet, where we had a perfect view of Cotopaxi, one of the worlds highest active volcanos.   Apparently we also had amazing energy, as three of the only one hundred and seven condors in Ecuador soon graced the skies above us.   Maybe that’s why I sometimes raise my voice as a parent…my amazing energy.   

        

Eamon was a pro with his equine amigo Castaño and hasn’t stopped talking about him since.   As horse whispering might be among his emerging talents, we are currently seeking sponsorships from interested individuals willing to front his future profession. 

 

Lucky for our competitive spirits, the owners of the hacienda had constructed a small ropes course behind the farmhouse, which the boys were eager to try after a hearty lunch fit for true Ecuadorian cowboys.  Porvenir was rapidly becoming our happy place.  JP immediately went into American Ninja Warrior mode to establish his personal best, stretching a few unknown muscles in his pursuit. 

Upon learning that an American pilot had completed the course in 5 minutes, he shed a layer of clothing and zeroed in on an aggressive second attempt.   While the boys navigated their challenge, our pack of equine amigos suddenly broke through a fence from the neighboring pasture like fans rushing the field after a winning touchdown.   Perhaps they missed us terribly, or maybe Eamon’s horse-whispering talent was indeed real.  Either way, it was a cool moment.

    Acclimated to the altitude, we awoke the next morning ready for our own Into Thin Air moment (less the tragic ending) on Cotopaxi.  Supposedly, the peak of Cotopaxi,  which means “neck of the moon” , is actually higher than that of Mt. Everest if you factor in the true distance between the center of the earth and the peak.   It has to do with the earth bulging at the equator, so if you want to get really geeky read more here.   Regardless, we were blissfully unaware as we drove the Mars-like road towards the 15,000 foot “base”, with a plan to hike to the shelter at 16,000 ft, which is the starting point for those gutsy enough to attempt a summit. 

We opened the van door slightly before the force of the whipping wind threw it open completely.  “Are we really doing this?” I asked aloud to no one in particular.  No one responded because everyone was already ten steps ahead of me charging north.

Tip #37 : Life is meant to be explored, not just witnessed from behind the foggy windows of a van.  I pulled my hood tight over my hat and followed.  

Imagine that you are climbing a stair master, at the highest rate of speed and resistance, while wearing a 40 lb vest.   Now imagine that you’ve been doing that for 2 hours, after 100 squats.  Thats how we felt 5 minutes into this climb.   Our climb of 200 meters took approx 20 minutes, but felt like a 90 minute sprint.  Eamon thought about quitting, however some force, maybe the spirit of Castaño, took over him and he persevered.   We made it to the first plateau, rested our hands on our knees, and gazed at the rainbow below us.   We were only a third of the way to the shelter.

 It was at this point that our guide Rodrigo noted that snow clouds were rapidly covering the shelter, and if we completed our ascent we’d for sure have no view.   We agreed that turning around while we were all winners was best for the group, and credited Eamon for likely being one of the few 7 year olds to have made this trek.  At the very least, he was one of the toughest.

Enjoying our highlands high, we packed our bags and ventured north to our second destination, Hacienda Zuleta. This larger hacienda near Otavalo is renown for its high production dairy Holstein cows, which help yield the famous Zuleta brand of cheeses.   The postcard worthy property has been in the Plaza-Lasso family, the Ecuadorian equivalent of the Bush family, for over six generations.    Presently, the six children of ex-president Galo Plaza-Lasso own and manage the enterprise.

Cobblestone roads pass alongside lush rolling pastures filled with horses and cows to create this 4000 acre bucolic paradise. 

  

Inside the hacienda, a variety family photos and oil portraits adorned nearly every inch of wall space.  Wandering the halls felt like being inside a sepia toned family video:  family celebrations, quiet snapshots, even a multitude of different Plaza-Lasso family members posing shoulder to shoulder with twentieth century world leaders.   

Margarita, the youngest sibling of the family dynasty, still lives at Zuleta and often entertains guests during the early evening wine and cheese.    She was witty, worldly, and stunningly beautiful; the kind of woman that can dine alongside dignitaries while having hunted their entree that same day.   Sitting beside her on a leather tufted stool,  I was immediately self conscious of my wet hair and travel worn shoes, however her well trained graciousness made us all feel welcomed like family.

At Zuleta, we all relished the opportunity to spread out and explore.  Sean and I woke at dawn every morning to hike the acres of trails that carved up the hillsides and through fragrant eucalyptus groves.   All along I could hear his brain ticking away on the feasibility of starting a new life chapter as Ecuadorian hacienda owner. 

    As for the boys, their fun came in the three four footed friends that greeted us upon our arrival, and never left our sides.  

We had heard much about Zuleta’s highly trained horses, a beautiful mix of American Quarter Horse, Thoroughbred, and Andalusian.    The men who cared for these stallions have been doing so at Zuleta for almost thirty years.  Watching them communicate with each of the horses was remarkable, as if they knew what the horse wanted before the horse knew it.  

  

Before our ride, we watched Don José put new horseshoes on a feisty female named Valencia.  While he filed and hammered, I asked him if he had a favorite horse of the whole pack.   He looked up, smiled, and asked me if I had a favorite child.  Understood.   Off we went for another epic 3 hour ride.

 

Thanks to everyone for all of your comments, emails, What’s Apps, and Flipgrids.  We love opening every single one of them. Hearing from friends and family always makes us feel part of home, so please know we appreciate it!!