Think big in Patagonia

I miss Patagonia.  Scratch that.  I’m aching to go back, right now.  I left kicking and screaming on a spectacularly brilliant day where it seemed like a crime to jump on an airplane rather than climb a mountain.   I actually thought about writing this post in the form of a love letter to Patagonia but when I floated that idea to my crew it didn’t have the aplomb I had hoped for, so here we are.   I’ve already described how Sean is a sucker for open waters.  Me, I get weak at the knees when plopped into a sun drenched field flanked by majestic mountains and sparking rivers.  Freedom and simplicity amidst a bucolic utopia.  Done.

Secretly, this was the part of our trip that I was most anticipating, and my instinct was spot on.   Stand in one place, spin around, and I’ll guarantee that every point on your rotation will be spectacular. 

The first thing we noticed about this region was the wind.  It’s apparently a constant element of the day’s weather year round. During our four hour drive north from Punta Arenas to Torres del Paine we’d grip our seats when sudden gusts would shove our van out of it’s intended direction.  The kids we’re happy doing whatever they were doing, but Sean and I preferred to watch how our driver responded to these gusts like a boxer, jabbing right back with the steering wheel.  This gave us new meaning to the term defensive driving.

The wind also allowed Sean’s growing head of hair to unleash it’s full potential of, well, loft.  

TBD on what he’ll look like upon our return. 

Our first destination was Torres del Paine National Park in the Chilean region of Patagonia.  Unlike in the Atacama desert, the weather gods were on our side here.  The rains that had closed the park a week prior had subsided, allowing the access roads to the national park to reopen just two days before our arrival.  Here, it was all about hiking, or trekking as it’s called in this region.  We started out with small excursions on our own and with a group. 

Big mountains called for big adventures, and we were hungry for one.  The next day Sean, JP, and I jumped on the opportunity to do an all day trek to the base of the Torres del Paine towers.   Owen and Eamon, happy to be on their own with a more leisurely group, set out for a half day adventure in search of pumas and rheas which they successfully spotted.

The day didn’t disappoint, as the weather was spectacular and everyone returned home in one piece.   We were grateful for the companionship of our trekking mates, especially Robert and Kathryn Hughes who kept us constantly amused with their hilariously dry British wit.   They don’t realize that we actually will show up unannounced on their doorstep in Manchester, UK.   BTW,  if you are searching for a good read, check out Kathryn’s bestselling novels.  She’s feverishly working on her fourth in order to satisfy demanding fans.

We threw our duffles in the van and headed next to Calafate, across the Argentinian border on the eastern edge of the Glacier National Park.  Calafate is a seasonal recreational town that reminded us of Lake Placid, NY with it’s mix of active travelers and happy-to-snap-a-pic-from-my bus-window tourists.   Think craft beers, chocolates, and lots of t-shirt shops.  Our mission here was a face to face meeting with the infamous Perrito Morreno glacier, one of 47 glaciers in the National Park.  

Coincidentally, we arrived at the tail end of the town’s annual music festival, for which Luis Fonsi was headlining the following night.   What luck! A chance to hear Mr. Despacito himself and dance to his reggaeton rhythyms amongst his most loyal fans! 

I set out in search of tickets, however my master plan for family fun quickly went down the tubes upon learning he wasn’t going onstage until midnight, at the earliest.  With an early morning tour of the glacier already booked, we, or should I say I, had a decision to make:  see Fonsi or watch a glacier moving des-pa-CITO? 

Sometimes I loathe responsibility.

In fairness, we all agreed that Perrito Moreno was probably one of the most incredible sights we’ve seen on our trip.   This glacier is one of only three glaciers in the world that grows, rather than retreats.   

 

Who knew that staring at ice for hours on end could be so exciting?  We watched intently, hoping to see a massive chunk break off, which we did.  Totally awesome, from the sound of the cracking to the tsunami-like wave it creates with it’s plunge in the lake.

Because it moves forward (2 meters/day) it periodically cuts off a section of Lake Argentina, creating a massive ice dam.  With no outlet, the water-level on the dammed side of the lake can rise by as much as 30 meters above the level of the main body of Lake Argentina. This eventually causes an awesome rupture and the huge block of ice tumbles down on the lake. 

If you’re going to learn all about glaciers while at the Glacier National Park, then where else to stop off after a log day of sightseeing than the an ice bar, otherwise known as the Polar Bar.

Touristy?  Yes.  Ridiculously fun for the allotted 25 minutes?  Absolutely . 

Onwards to El Chaltén.  Less crowds, bigger mountains, and just plain beautiful.  El Chaltén is home to the famous Fitz Roy peak, which is that iconic mountain used by the ubiquitous Patagonia brand that we all know and love.  I always say that if abandoned on a deserted island, one of the three things I’d bring would be my Patagonia sweater jacket.  I go everywhere with it, including, of course, Patagonia. 

We agreed that one of us had to complete the legendary Laguna de los Tres hike,  so Sean set out on his own the next day to bring back the honors.  Funny, he arrived at breakfast more prepared than ever that morning once  he learned he’d have a whole day on his own.   

The boys and I headed for Lago del desierto where we hiked through Lord of the Rings forests to get to secret lagoons with stunning glaciers,  free of charge.  

Time and time again we see that kids are often most content when things are simple.  Such was the case here, where they spent hours making stick forts, building bridge of rocks, and smearing red berries on their faces like war paint.

Last stop, Bariloche.  While technically in the lake district and not Patagonia, we felt the same good vibe here as in our previous stops.    Full disclosure, we were ready to just chill and really didn’t take that many photos, so please just go visit for yourself.  You won’t be disappointed.    

Without a doubt, we’ll be back in Patagonia again sometime soon.   But, little did we know our luck had run out as we packed our bags…